Thrift shopping, for the uninitiated, involves scouring the aisles of brick-and-mortar stores or scrolling through the listings of apps and websites to find unique and affordable secondhand clothing, shoes, bags, accessories, and home goods. People thrift shop for many reasons. In the Japanese context, thrift shopping holds appeal because it allows shoppers to wear prices they wouldn’t normally be able to afford, it offers a wider range of style choices instead of adhering to the more limited selections available new in stores, and it relieves the anxiety and guilt associated with consumerism because the purchases are recycled and ethically sustainable. Other explanatory categories for global appeal include economic necessity and the possibility that often-discarded clothes are seen as treasured keepsakes in secondary markets overseas in regions like Africa and Asia. Also importantly, thrift shopping is a communal and even creative experience. Real thrifters aren’t just looking for deals. They’re on the hunt for the unique and unusual items that pass through the secondhand economy. There’s joy and thrill in that process, and also potentially some self-discovery, another leisure practice rich in the spiritual capital of the slow life and sustainable fashion communities. In the luxury fashion world, thrifting is seen as a lifestyle curated intentionally or aspirationally.
I am particularly interested in the reasons shoppers frequent secondhand shops and the experiences of the people who sell items in Japan. Why do they have to sell things? What tales do they have about their cast-offs, or goods from their circles of loved ones, memories embedded in each object? These attractors and repellors to trade, these hidden stories, form the layers and intersections building Japan’s secondhand economy. Thrifty practices like selling clothing online are as normal and non-specific as youth selling clothing online in other modern, urban settings, but also very particular to today’s lives in Japan. This thesis is intended to offer insight into the culture and practice of thrift in Japan through fieldwork conducted in Tokyo, Kyoto, and Shiga Prefecture.
Definition and Significance
Thrift shopping is a form of buying practice. Sellers are known as thrift shops or thrift stores, and sometimes charity stores. The word “thrift” started out in the English language in the late fourteenth century, and it’s the quality of exploiting property and resources carefully and with value for money. Today, the primary traits of thrift shopping are centered on the act of buying. Its purpose is to buy a secondhand product that might be exposed in-store or online, generally a used commodity. There could also be means to shop in another shop and consign to sell their goods; however, in this case, the focus is on the choice. The thrift shop accepts the supplied used products associated with the convenience and marketing system and places them up for an acceptable price. The fundamental idea of thrift buying mustn’t consume any further waste; instead, it should utilize available resources and save acquisition costs. All the commissions and funds feedback are directed to environmental charity organizations or other solid demands.
Thrift shopping permits customers to fulfill various motivations. For instance, thrift shopping is eco-friendly and extends the life cycle of a product while protecting the environment. The attitude towards thrift shopping is initially supported by the underlying reduction of waste and the conservation of precious social and energy resources. Customers from various socio-economic classes and ages have been found to thrift to assist charitable organizations. The sentiment might be summarized as, “I thrift because it helps individuals who want someone to shop for their household items.” It supports others’ attitudes, showing that thrift serves a valuable and supportive role. It is a worthy idea that neutralizes the image of the modern throwaway society. Some thrifters remark, “Good work on keeping a spirit of making do and maintaining.” We understand what waste and surplus are, although they are often not very clear.
Historical Background
It is regarded as most likely that thrift stores or shops where second-hand goods are sold to support charitable causes or nonprofit organizations were introduced to Japan in the early 20th century. These thrift stores were made necessary by various historical and economic events. For many, the Great Depression made thrift shopping a necessity, and it continued to be associated with poverty. Over the years, however, the image of thrift shopping has shifted from that of a place uncool and for the poor to a chic, trendsetting location popular among the fashion-forward youth. While history was a major factor in informing participants’ views and decisions to thrift in America when second-hand goods were first sold to support patriotic associations, for our participants in Tokyo, Japan, and for many around the globe, experiences of shopping for cheap and unique goods, and a concern for the ethics of recycling, are far more relevant than whether or not thrift shops are linked to charitable causes or nonprofits. Recently, thrift shopping has been further legitimized by the creation of a market for vintage fashion. Branded vintage firms and other magazines have contributed greatly to the popularization of thrift shopping, bringing the message to the mainstream that those buying thrift are individuals influenced by popular culture. In Japan, as throughout the world, second-hand and vintage shops are now widespread, and there are a wide variety of circulation patterns. The revenue generated by thrift stores has benefited multiple charitable organizations for almost a hundred years. Involvement with charity is not, however, a central concern; others, such as the leading chain off-price and recycled goods retailer in Japan, focus on value. Thrift chains represent entire regional economies. In Tokyo, Shibuya, Shimokitazawa, Setagaya, Koenji, Ikebukuro, Ueno, and Shin-Okubo are popular areas for thrift shopping. Japan is one of the absolute top global cities for thrift shopping. A significant percentage of young Japanese said they use thrift shops at interviews taken in Tokyo’s Harajuku shopping district. Furthermore, the number of thrift stores appears to be on the rise, with everyone from grandmas to fashion-conscious college students participating in a stroller market boom.
Thrift Shopping in Japan
Thrift stores have been gaining popularity in Western countries for the past two decades. Especially among the younger generations, thrift shopping in the age of digital shares has become a unique pastime. The word “thrift” still has a relatively negative connotation in Japan thanks to the trace of the austerity measures taken following the economic collapse after World War II. Data a few years back showed that around nine out of ten people who visited thrift shops in Japan were one-time buyers, purchasing mainly cotton t-shirts and jeans. However, times have changed. Tokyo has become one of the fashion hotspots in the world, which makes its thrift stores a hotbed for younger Japanese youth from the subcultural scene to hip office ladies. And they are not buying to save; they are spending on items of historical value not because they are cheap; they are wearing them as an expression of unique personality.
Albeit some locals embrace poverty chic, recent attention towards sustainable fashion and eco-friendliness has also pushed up the sales of used clothes greatly in urban Tokyo. What makes a thrift store in Japan different from ones in Western countries is the visitorship divide and a heterogeneity in types of shops. Unlike in the United States or in England where demographics for the buyers of used clothing tend to hang around a specific social class, youths from almost all walks of life are crazy about thrift in Japan.
Popularity and Trends
As far as demographics go, there are a few that are essentially at the peak of shopping age right now, and they have shown a tendency toward purchasing secondhand goods. This includes both older and younger people. Millennials and Generation Z are especially popular, with the recent trend of saving money, which has been going on for a few years now. Millennials are forming families and having children while Generation Z is reaching shopping age, thus the two generations are among the most important to the economy right now. Holding another position is the influence of social media. Platforms have become extremely influential and help the fascination with thrift stores reach those who have never visited an actual secondhand store. Items purchased at thrift shops have become a part of a lifestyle, and the online user base has exploded. Another factor is having the two in combination; however, you cannot look at one independently of the other.
For one social media component, consumers who frequently shop at thrift stores upload their finds regularly on the various platforms. Other consumers interested in the goods at thrift stores can see the items through images and comments with a “me too!” From there, people discuss many details, such as the best shops and how to check item conditions. Up until now, numerous photographs and posts have helped create a community of secondhand enthusiasts. The powerful online word-of-mouth may also lead to new customers, thereby enhancing the value of stores and bringing more attention to thrift shopping in general. With the pair combined, a powerful effect can be made, as the youth seek to show off the unique items from the stores and platforms. Many of the shops can be accessed online, and a dedicated group of people has existed for quite a while. That being said, it is noted that most of the people seeking bargains are younger and utilize smartphones. Many consumers who are visiting merchants might not possess the motivation to purchase something, which is more about the “scenery and unique atmosphere.” Themed days or seasonal discounts can provide inspiration as well. In Japan, many customers are participating in themed items or the recent fashion trend that is occurring. When seasonal inventory clearances occur, it is not uncommon to see a large number of high school girls packing the shops in various districts, predominantly in Osaka or Tokyo.
Types of Thrift Stores
In Japan, there are two broad types of used goods stores. The upscale vintage boutique, which is curated to include only the highest quality, rare garments that might be missing a skirt or have a bit of a stain, is sold at very high prices. On the other end of the deal, we have traditional secondhand shops, which are often quite large and warehouse-like. They’re full of low-cost, mostly generic leftover items from Japan’s past that have somehow all ended up back on the shelves at a secondhand store. Since these types of stores serve quite different client bases, I’m going to call them the curated stores and the traditional thrift stores.
Curated stores used to be gaining a great deal of popularity in Japan. They purchase items that are already in high demand for a niche market, and so they are beloved by their customers. These curated secondhand stores have one clear advantage in targeting a specialized market with a strong brand, but they also often have a funky place where tradition meets creativity. They vary greatly in size but tend to be quite small. They use their regular presence as advertisements and don’t tend to sell anything for much less than 5,000 to 10,000 yen. Traditional thrift stores tend to market themselves as treasure troves. You never know what you might find among the diversity on their shelves. As their great trick, they offer terribly low prices in the hope that customers load up their baskets before finding out what they want. While many of the shops are warehouse-sized, some have a unique focus for people interested in just one thing: either clothes, kitchenware, antiques, collectibles, or something else entirely. If the shop is large enough, they might also sell secondhand sporting goods and musical instruments. In Japan, there are also quite a few shops that are charitable in nature; that is, the vast majority of their used clothes are given away to the needy for free. These shops are not for profit. While their main purpose is to support a worthwhile social goal, they also prevent the vast majority of clothes they receive from ending up in the trash.
Unique Finds and Treasures
Many enthusiasts turn to thrift shopping for vintage clothing and accessories, allowing them to craft a unique and charming wardrobe for themselves. Beyond the fashion world, those who participate in subculture or steampunk fashion regularly enjoy thrift shopping because it allows them access to period-accurate pieces that they use to complete their characters. As such, it only follows that more than just fashion enthusiasts shop at second-hand stores, and indeed the general public also hunts for vintage finds. In searching endlessly through towers of face powder and a brand-new copy of a CD, many collectors ultimately turn to the second-hand store for a piece of themselves—to see their own reflection in the unwanted shards of others’ lives.
While many items available at resale venues are of Western origin, the thrift shops of Japan actually carry traditional arts and crafts. Travelers are often surprised to find that many used clothing stores can carry hand-carved wooden masks or delicate, embroidered kimonos. This is partially because foreign-made products also mimic domestic items, such as bone china. While in countries like America, “vintage” anything can be comparatively difficult to recover due to the deeply ingrained desire to keep up with current fashions, vintage or antique items have a long history of artistic and intrinsic value, naturally making them more desirable. Not only do foreigners purchase these items, but they are often sold as souvenirs in areas of Japan with high tourist traffic. Every piece is unique—not perhaps in the sentimental history of the piece, but in the time, effort, and craftsmanship that went into any single thing in a country practically indigent in land. In the end, perhaps items displayed for sale in a second-hand store carry a kind of ownership bias: a history-in-the-making that belongs to nobody now.
Vintage Clothing and Accessories
Vintage clothing and accessories are some of the most desired and unique items that thrift shops carry. Indeed, the charm of so-called ‘vintage fashion’ extends far and wide: this fashion values unique clothing that differs completely from the kind of clothes that might be had by people, built up by means of famous brands and popular trends. Furthermore, the concept of time travel allows wearers of vintage clothing to freely choose their ‘own’ era, in turn, paying homage to the glory of those bygone days in which they have a particular interest. Properly chosen vintage clothing and accessories may turn out to be quite the topic of conversation and can break the ice at any gathering, and they have also come to be well understood as an enjoyment of fashion in their own right.
Vintage clothing items are not only desirable because of the unique style they offer; the same types of fashion items are often not mass-produced by modern manufacturers, on account of the high level of craftsmanship and the high quality of the materials required in their manufacture. In recent years, retro styles of the 1960s and 70s have become increasingly popular among the piping hot fashions of the day. Another thing that makes these vintage items appealing is their story, being symbolic of unique fashion and design cultures, as well as the differences and changes in times and tastes. A growing environmental awareness among teenagers worldwide has increased interest in ‘reuse culture’, another side effect of which is the rising popularity of thrift shops among youth. In their attempt to protect the environment, some environmentally conscious shoppers look at thrift shop fashion as the complete opposite of fast fashion, which is bad for the environment. Yet another sort of appeal found in thrift stores is fashion history, passed down through the clothing of days long gone. In this sense, thrift shops are much visited by tourists from overseas, on the search for treasures that cannot be found back home. These stores feature not only clothing that ranges from authentic American casual to tailoring and couture, but also innumerable accessories. As with the clothing of times past, these accessories show their own particular kind of fashion culture and can be appreciated as having their own particular aesthetic value. Shoppers are encouraged to view the antique values of their purchases second-hand while enjoying Japan.
Traditional Japanese Items
Traditional Japanese items featured in thrift stores in Japan include kimonos, tea ceremony tools, ceramics, vintage yukatas, wooden kokeshi dolls, retro kokeshi, secondhand Japanese swords, nihonga brushes, hanging scrolls, and handcrafted wood carvings. The items in this category are immediately distinguishable from their American counterparts and focus on the more luxurious aspects of traditional Japanese culture that may have made their way into these stores. What’s also interesting to note is that if this is a push to explore traditional Japanese culture, then this practice encourages young people to understand this topic through purchase, consumption, and display in their homes. Many Japanese people grew up in modern homes without direct exposure to nihon no bunka until their generation became interested in the traditional aspects of their heritage. Young people can buy a beautiful artifact, dress, or curio for a reasonable price and share the aesthetic and their new knowledge with guests in their home. If these items weren’t made available to young people in this way, it might be much harder to get them excited about the things their grandparents used. Plus, the more people shop, the more money is generated for various conservation projects, from digitizing archives and audio materials to supporting the rebuilding of traditional cottages. In that regard, young people who specifically enjoy thrift shopping seem to me like an excellent vehicle through which traditional objects have a high likelihood of being preserved.
Etiquette and Tips for Thrift Shopping
To thrift in Japan, enjoy the experience of being considerate toward other shoppers as well as the shop staff. This is especially important during peak times in popular stores where the aisles are packed with clothing and shoppers. Everything in the store has been organized with care and thoughtful placement, so always be sure to return things to their rightful location if they don’t end up in your shopping basket. These are all part of general shopping know-how, but they are especially paramount in thrift stores. It’s best to go through the experience with a spirit of considerateness, wherever you thrift.
In some shops, it is not possible to try clothes on, while others have a special area for trying things on. Memorize the store’s policy before shopping to avoid a walk of shame back to the changing rooms to put a garment back. Garment prices will often differ according to how they are bundled and presented. At this shop, you pay 150 yen for everything in a red bowl. You go home with all of this stuff, delighted at the treasure you’ve found. Shopping requires time, many visits, and high levels of discernment in order to unearth unique treasures. Items that are in heavily circulated genres will cost nearly the same as in department stores and commercial outlets, so take careful consideration when buying expensive brands here that are definitely real, but may cost too much. Japanese home product designs are unique and of high quality. Keep an eye out for everyday items and designer goods. Always secure your valuables and a fashionable purse in a way that makes it difficult for pickpockets to strike. No one thinks petty thievery is a good thing, but it is better to be vigilant. Thrifting means exposing oneself to large crowds and moving into tightly packed aisles, hence the emphasis here.
Let the spirit of the shop guide you as you move. Those looking for high-end labels should look for boutiques and similar higher-end thrift shops. Your experience in a 100 yen megastore will differ greatly from a small-town, locally run boutique. Flowing with the spirit of how and where you are thrifting can forge lifelong friendships and even leave you with a chosen community.
Store Policies and Rules
While thrift store policies can differ on a store-to-store basis, some rules are universally understood. First and foremost, maintaining cleanliness is of the utmost importance. Because of the nature of thrift shopping, some stores can operate on slim profit margins. Helping employees by maintaining organization and cleanliness can make a difference. Respect store hours. If the store opens at a certain time, do not show up early and wait to shop. Additionally, be mindful of store return policies and what payment methods are accepted. Similar to cash purchases, some stores will not accept international credit cards. Because thrift items are unique and one-of-a-kind, sometimes collectors may visit stores in hopes of finding specific items. However, it is generally recommended that people should minimize expectations and remember to shop with flexibility. Some stores will not have an inventory or database to search through and cannot confirm whether an item is in store. Consequently, managers and staff in the store cannot assure that an item will definitely be available ahead of one’s visit. These key pointers are considerations to guide first-time and even frequent thrift shoppers on what to expect. Practice caution when handling items—nothing is perfect. Replace items where you found them or hand them off to a staff member if you break something. Be sure to communicate properly by asking for assistance or thanking employees for their help. Communicate with staff members by saying hello, requesting the use of a fitting room, asking for insight about items, expressing gratitude, and wishing staff a farewell upon exiting the store. Understand that employees have tasks and guidelines they must adhere to and may not be able to assist with all requests.
Negotiation and Bargaining
Bargaining
In my opinion, this topic is related to the context of thrifting. Although thrifting is possible at a small number of float-in events or specialized kinds of markets, most of the transactions, over the counter, are carried out hand to hand with a staff member in a store dealing in used items. However, the custom of bargaining and negotiation with the staff is somewhat different according to the shop’s genesis or the chain. Foreign people, including Japanese learners, may have the impression that you can fix the price at a level far below the fixed price by showing the product with scratches or stains and capturing the feelings of the store clerk in the retail store. However, domestic residents don’t have much experience bargaining with foreign countries, and there is no general idea that “the thrift store clerk values the feelings and reasons of the customer you heard and negotiates the price” or “after having heard the rich story, I unpack the cheap price.” Domestic resident Japanese people seem to think that “throbbing” by feeling that may contact the half or reasonable price and phrases that look like negotiation to the staff.
Negotiation is called ‘mame talk’ and ‘nomi talk’ in shops, but thrift stores seem to be a bit weak. Shop staff have been subjecting many thrift stores in Japan in recent years to “dealing price negotiations chivalry – memorization tips” to the movement and attitude of the Japanese who can freely barter. In thrift stores, the original merchandise moves and the price is fixed by the store. But to be free in mame talk, shop staff in thrift stores refer only to negotiating from the bottom with price consciousness. Even as thrifting people, I think it will be a smarter bargained manner.
This essay has explored various cultural dimensions of thrift shopping as they exist in both a public, social sense and a deeply personal, inner experience. As an ongoing process of global change, there is evidence to suggest that the future of thrift shopping looks bright. Emerging consumer concerns about ethical production and living underpin a strong contemporary interest in thrifting and all that it signifies: youth culture, rarity, uniqueness, and sustainability. With this growing public interest, there is in our present-day world an increasingly porous relationship between ‘traditional’ luxury fashion and the aesthetic of pre-loved clothing; the majority of luxury houses now engage in a kind of telling recycling through their ‘vintage.’ This is the selling of old clothes as objects laden with the aura of their historical use, decamping from all waxy mythology that they once generated.
While we remain interested in the ethnic sideshows of thrift culture, changing and evolving as they daily do within a networked world, we are equally hopeful about the future of the everyday practice of thrifting away from the industrial thrift store business: the gift relationship. The next decades are likely to see an increasing number of charity stores looking, feeling, and acting like high-fashion boutiques. At the same time, while some thrifters will continue to be nourished by the quest to clothe themselves on the cheap, such that they can demonstrate upon their bodies that they are unique and beautiful snowflakes, there is an equally hopeful rise of a newer kind of thrifter who understands that their purchases reveal the sacrifice of others’ goods. But they are motivated in large part by the complex desires of the fetish, adventurer, and glutton that have always underpinned the enthralling human pursuit of the shopping treasure.